Cochamó - Rock Climbing in Patagonia, Chile

So many lines to open, life's too short.

More than 100 big-wall, sport and crack routes established.

Four 1000-meter granite walls.

Long routes generally combine crack and face.

Sport and crack crags, one of which remains dry and climable when it rains.

Minimal bouldering exists and potential for more, but opening new problems requires extensive cleaning.

*Route topos and descriptions are kept at the Refugio Cochamó. Some topos and descriptions can be found in the routes section.

Description

Thousand meter granite walls border the valley along the Cochamó River. Valle Cochamó's rock provides route potential beyond the imagination. The area has already become a world class climbing destination, with first ascents from people from almost every continent on the globe. If you're into long routes, sport routes, bouldering, establishing new routes or just hanging in a gorgeous landscape, Valle Cochamó is one of South America's best.

The area has only minimal development but many routes already exist. The rock quality is excellent. Nevertheless, unclimbed cracks tend to be dirty and vegetated in places.

Both sport climbing and bouldering areas in the valley are being developed.

Many climbers familiar with Yosemite Valley have found Valle Cochamó to have many common features, as well as differences. Comparing the two may be sinfull, but as you enter between the glacially-formed granite walls it's difficutlt not to. Long bold lines make their way to the top. Cochamó, however, lacks some of Yosemite's obvious aspects. Traffic, motors and generator noise don't exist since there are no roads. Ranger Jo won't say you have surpassed your two-week limit stay or arrest you for sleeping in a cave. Camping will not likely fill up either. Freedom reins in the Valle Cochamó.

This also means, however, that the routes can be still dirty and vegetated. Trails to the walls don't always exist because so many still have not been touched. Vegetation flourishes in this Valdivian rainforest on the approach and sometimes in the cracks.

Walls

Walls stand in almost every direction from the valley's center. They tend to gradually slope up to vertical and curve back and finish at peaks. Their sides, like Trinidad, generally sport less than vertical terrain. Some walls have seen dozens of ascents, many only a few and many more have one or no routes as of 2009.

Click the image to see a map of the walls. Listed below are only some of the named walls and one of its longest routes (in parenthesis).

1. Arco Iris (potential up to 1,000 m)
2. La Zebra (Apnea 5.10a 100 m)
3. Cerro Capicúa (Tigres del Norte 5.12d 1,200 m)
4. Matelandia (Tomátelas 5.9 50 m)
5. Cerro La Junta (Viaje a la Luna Creciente 5.12c/A1 1,070 m)
6. Pared Seca (50 m)
7. Pared de los Placeres (Fiesta de Monos 5.10c 450 m)
8. Paz & Profetas (Joe's Pocket Monkey 5.11/A1 600 m)
9. La Luna (Eclipse Lunar 5.11c 35 m)
10. El Cementerio (Flores para los Muertos 5.9 25 m)
11. Elefante (La Trompa 5.12 700 m)
12. Trinidad (Bienvenidos a mi Insomnio 5.11a 950 m)
13. Mini Frey (5.10 100 m)
14. Cerro La Laguna (Some Days Twice 5.12d 420 m)
15. Gorila (Mister M 5.10/A1 R 500 m)
16. Milton Adams (Wicked Big Toddlah' 5.10a 150 m)
17. El Perfil (potential up to 400m)
18. La Paciencia (potential up to 600m)
19. El Espejo (Excelente mi Teniente 5.11a 400m)
20. Walwalün (Cien Años de Soledad 5.11a 900 m)
21. El Monstruo (La Gran Raja 5.11d/A1 1,100 m)

What To Bring

ropes	Bring at least two 60-meter ropes. Having more for fixed lines is helpful. The refugio has some ropes for fixing lines.
crack gear	Have one to two sets of nuts with a large assortment of micros. One to two sets of cams. One set of offsets are especially helpful. Large cams or big-bros are sometimes necesary. Camalot 4 and 5 can be rented at the refugio.
pulleys	To get to some walls, pulleys can be essential. Some trails access walls by crossing fixed lines and cables that span rivers sometimes too difficult to cross by foot.
aid gear	Many first ascents require pins, pitons and other aid gear. Beaks are some of the most commonly used pieces.
bolting gear	Many first ascensions require bolts. Please use only stainless steal hardware and bolts at least 10mm or 3/8" in diameter. You can buy stainless steel bolts and hangers (US$3.00 the set), and rent hand drills, hammer and power drill at the Refugio Cochamó. A US$500 deposit is required for the power drill.
portaledges	Having a portaledge can be convienent on the rock especially if you get stuck in bad weather. Many climbers, however, leave the extra weight to lug around at home and decide to sleep on ledges, hang from hammocks or fix lines.
insurance	Having insurance that covers helicopter rescue may increase the chances of a quick rescue. Check out the American Alpine Journal membership which may still provide helicopter rescue insurance for climbers.
money	Withdrawl or exchange the money you'll need in Puerto Varas or Puerto Montt before arriving. Cochamó town does not have ATM machines, banks or places to exchange money.
Check out the horses & guides page for hiring horses to bring your gear and even you - into the valley.

Communication

The refugio offers satelite communication via this website. To receive an e-mail at the refugio, messages must be sent through the Pass on a Message page or www.cochamo.com/message. E-mails sent from the refugio will be sent from the refugio's e-mail server. Receiving and sending a message costs $1,000 pesos. There is no Internet nor cell phone coverage.

Emergencies & Rescue

The closest hospital is located in Puerto Varas. Cochamó town provides medical assistance only for minor injuries. Getting an injured person evacuated to Puerto Varas's hospital may take at least a full day. Helicopter rescue is rare to non-existent. The Cochamó police will assist in rescues if they can be notified. Communication from the valley to town is also not guaranteed. A sat phone and radio communication is available for emergencies.

Please keep the above in mind when climbing routes. Try to learn as much as possible about your route before climbing it. Please minimize dangersous falls on new routes. Report dangerous run-outs, loose rock, bad protection and other dangers to the refugio.

Serious injuries, when treated within a given period of time, can save a lives. Remember, that these same injuries can result in death in Valle Cochamó because of the excess time and difficulties to evacuate and reach professional medical assistance.

Other Sources of Info

Other sources of information concerning climbing in Cochamó can be found at StoneDance.com - Rock Climbing in Argentina & Chile.